Tag: Granada

  • Stuck in Venice – a tale of wine, cheese, eyeliner and loose change. Part I.

    Stuck in Venice – a tale of wine, cheese, eyeliner and loose change. Part I.

    It was coming up to the end of our Erasmus year, and what had been one of the most incredible experiences I’d had to date. I had been living in Italy for around 5 months at that point, and there was a fortnight left for me to savour all things Italian – culture, language, the good expresso morning routine, and of course, (mainly) FOOD. You’ve no idea how much I miss the food. I don’t know how Italians manage it when they stay abroad. Suddenly it all makes sense when they turn their noses up at anything supposedly ‘authentically Italian’ produced outside of their country.  (Although I must say that hasn’t changed my love for Pizza Express garlic doughballs, sorrynotsorry). But being honest, there’s just no comparing it, food is not just food (a principle I’ve always stood by) and pasta is not just limited to spaghetti, macaroni, farfalle (bow-tie) and fuselli (the swirly one). I remember walking into a supermarket and finding myself completely baffled at the sight of 4 aisles (I don’t even think I’m exaggerating) dedicated solely to pasta. It’s kind of a big deal. As is all food in Italy really. They just put everything into it, and everything is about food and food is everything and oh my god I loved it so much! So much so that I’ve set my mind to writing a various posts about it. But I digress..

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    Yes I’m holding gelato; no I’m not thinking of final year.

    So. It’s late July, exams were well and truly over (can I get an Amen?…and a Spritz maybe?) and I was nowhere near ready to face the fact that Sangria nights and Calzone Fridays were soon to be replaced by 2-for-1 dinners at the local Spoons and Wet Winter Evenings by the TV (and also laptop, because, you know, ‘studying’). It was too much to bear. My dear Dobby, or ‘Carys’ as the world knows her, was also suffering from the same reluctance to leave the Erasmus bubble,  however, was on the lookout for a bit of a change of scenery. So seeing this as an opportunity, we arranged for her to spend the last bit of her Erasmus with us in Italy, it would be perfect; the gang back together again. We would go to the beach, do a little sightseeing, find a new kebaby, eat breakfast pizza and GO TO THE BUFFET, you know, all the important stuff.

    And that’s what we did. It was a wonderful 2 weeks, and aside from seeing Modena in a new light, and visiting the neighbouring sites, it was so much fun just to be back together again and reminiscing about the time we’d spent as a dynamic (more like disastrous) duo causing havoc in Granada, and what both of us had been up to in the second semester.

    It’s also somewhat comforting to hear someone else’s experience of a similar situation. Obviously we had been in different places, and had done different things, but the case remained the same; there was a sense of mixed feeling. Erasmus had brought us so much in terms of experience, awareness, friendships, and many a tale to tell, nevertheless, it made looking at the same place in a different light near impossible. Granada for us would always be the place we loved before term started; the place we hated during those depressing November blues; the place we struggled to find ourselves in at first and of course the place we never wanted to let go of when the time came to part ways.

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    Mojitos, Bad Moves and Mischief

    I went back to Granada a year or so after leaving, and the vibe was not as before, it’s true – me not being a student anymore had changed my perspective a little. Yet the yearning desire to stay and just be in the city was something I still felt very deeply. It brought up many fond memories, being there, and the less joyous ones had not by any means tainted my love for la vida andaluza, which we wanted to hold onto for a little while longer. In fact leaving there again provoked that sensation of FOMO, would you believe (I just can’t leave Granada alone!)?

    ANYWAY. Rewind to my story. So we’re in Italy, Erasmus is about to end, we are both very much in denial about having to go back to reality and well, most of all dreading our final year of university and also British weather because ew gross/why/when will I ever see the sun again?

    “I’ve never been to Venice before.”

    Suitcases are half empty (or half full, depending on your perception of life); Carys and I much like others in our situation have a case (or two! **laughs at own pun**) of not knowing whether we’re coming or going **laughs at unintended rhyme**.   Odd socks and bras and Primark leggings are strewn across the tiled floor, a pot of Nutella and a bare packet of mini toasted bread (ALL the rage in the Med) sits amongst all our lovely mess, next to a slightly deflated air mattress. Windows are wide open and the voices of Italians getting on with their day can be heard from the street one floor below.

    ”Let’s go then; let’s go early tomorrow and spend the whole day there. It will be great, we’ll have a tourist day out and we can take pictures and eat food and take more pictures and eat even more food – you see where I’m going with this..?”

    Venezia
    May’15, when the lovely Christoff came to visit – another adventure to be blogged!

    Aside from our days spent in the sun, (WHY AM I STILL PASTY IT’S BEEN A YEAR) we had a few moments where we just reverted back to our cave-like ways. And I loved it. Still in pijamas at 3pm, and listening to people’s conversations below, we drank our teas and planned for what would be a great day ahead.

    I can’t remember exactly what time we got up, but I remember it being early; as in the thought crosses your mind when the alarm goes off: ‘Maybe we can just not go’. But we decided that as Uni + Dissertation + grey clouds + bad tv was soon on the cards, it was best to make the most of our final days as foreign exchange students. So we ambled quickly to the train station. That’s an outright lie; I’m pretty sure we ended up running (pastry in hand) and I’m almost certain I didn’t catch my breath until the next stop. But point being, we made it; we were on our way.

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    Pretend we’ve had a really good night’s sleep and aren’t craving booze right now

    One transfer and a few hours later, we found ourselves stumbling out of Venezia-Santa Lucia train station. People were basking in the mid-morning sun conveniently (not so much) sat on the steps outside, staring at the bustling mobs below, tourists and locals alike, just EVERYWHERE. The place was moving, individuals weaving in and out of crowds, nearby restaurants at full capacity, tour boats making their way across the river, the view across from which was impressive in itself. As is what happens sometimes when one first arrives at a tourist attraction, after a bit of a journey and even less sleep, everything seems all a bit much. We both stood for a moment trying to take it all in.

    ”Where do we start”

    Excited to see the city (I had been a couple times before but Venice had a way of bringing the excited explorer out in you), we braved the crowds and got out our recently acquired map. And selfie stick. And dictionary.

    Look if you’re going to play tourist, you may as well go all out.

    No socks and sandals combo though. Sorry.

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  • Moving to Modena; Meet the Girls Who Saved My Spanish, and My Sanity.

    Moving to Modena; Meet the Girls Who Saved My Spanish, and My Sanity.

    Moving in with people you’ve never met is a bit risky to say the least. Finding individuals who will put up with your messy kitchen routine, shower ballads and constant burping can be difficult, but I considered myself lucky last year with all the flatmates I had, who didn’t seemed to mind too much when I blared out ‘Bootylicious’ full blast or made the whole flat stink of curry.

    Leaving Granada was the best thing to happen to my Spanish. Don’t get me wrong, I had improved since arriving six months prior, and so had my confidence, but University life there was, in all honesty, just not happening for me. To put it bluntly I learnt more Spanish over coffee with friends than I did inside the classroom. “You’re not really one for studying are you? It seems like networking’s more your thing.” Networking. I’ll go with that Dad.

    Before leaving Spain I had tried to find accommodation ASAP, and after the Casa de Big Problemas fiasco I was extremely reluctant to be put through another housing nightmare; also I had a grand total of five days in England before flying to Italy, and didn’t want to wind up sleeping on a park bench. Thankfully, through Erasmus FaceBook groups I was contacted by two Spanish friends, who lived to fiesta, knew how to cook tortilla, and were in need of a flatmate. SOLD!

    Wuapas
    Wuapas

    I was excited to move but at the same time dreaded it. Spain was much more than I ever expected, and I just didn’t know if Italy was going to live up to it. Leaving Granada felt like I was leaving the best party early, while all my friends stayed on to drink more sangria and speak better Spanish.

    “Damn it my Italian is so poor. I should’ve pie-d it off altogether”

     

    “Well with 6 credits from first semester I’ve definitely failed the year, BRILLIANT”

     

    “Oh God what if they don’t turn up to the bus station and I’m left all alone with 2 heavy suitcases and nowhere to go?!”

     

    “What if they hate me because I can’t speak Spanish?”

     

    “WHY AM I DOING THIS?!”

     

    These were just some thoughts that meant I didn’t sleep well the night before my flight to Bologna (in fact, I passed out so hard on the plane, that I only woke up when the wheels hit the tarmac on the other side). Waiting for Cristina and Alicia at Modena Bus Station was a nervous experience, but when we found each other I decided not to let my anxiety and doubts get the better of me; after all, making a tit out of oneself in adequate Spanish is probably better than remaining mute to the people you’ll be living with.

    After being shown our lovely flat, a renovated bunker-style apartment, with tiled floors and wooden beams, I was introduced to the city (in my eyes, a town, but I’m not going to argue with the Italians). We stopped for a coffee since it was raining outside (typical Brit bringing the weather with me, soz) and whilst having a chat with them I realised the stress I felt before was unnecessary and pathetic.

    Cris is a gregarious Andalusian girl, who loves tomatoes, drinking cerve’itas and of course, worships el sol. She loves the fact I stayed in the south of Spain, scolds me for not having visited her beautiful home-town of Seville, and is one of the main reasons why I’ve subconsciously taken to speaking in an Andaluz accent.

    Ali is a hilarious Galician girl, who loves The Simpsons, loves seafood even more, and absolutely detests coconuts. She never ceases to amaze me with ridiculously accurate impressions, is constantly listening to English songs I just have not heard of, and is my partner in crime when it comes to procrastination (aka ‘coffee (beer) break?’).

     

    Too often the fear of being misunderstood or unintentionally causing insult/offence to the other person prevents us from communicating with those who do not share our mother tongue. They are foreigners, not aliens, and can still appreciate when someone not of their native language tries to communicate, even if it’s poorly done. Living with these girls, I couldn’t afford to be shy, introvert and unwilling to speak a language other than my own. And thank God I wasn’t. Being with my flatmates played a huge part of my Erasmus experience in Italy – I couldn’t have wished for better friends to share it with. And thank goodness they didn’t mind when I made mistakes; my botched translation of The Lord of The Rings as ‘Señoras del Ano’ made for a constant source of flat banter.

    For those of you with little or no Spanish, I essentially admitted to being a fan of movie series “Women of the bumhole”.

    Great way to make a lasting impression Sam.

     

  • New Year, New Me – Saying ¡Sí!

    New Year, New Me – Saying ¡Sí!

    I retreated home for Christmas last year, welcomed by Lidl’s weekly stock of mince pies – I went from being homesick to almost physically sick; I tried explaining to Mum that they also eat food in Spain, but that didn’t seem to deter her from fattening me up like the honorary Christmas Turkey. Despite not being back in a while, my break at home was short and sweet, much to the family’s dismay (everyone enjoys my ability to clear the entire fridge contents, as well as my inability to not knock over everything in sight).

    Dad had suggested I stay longer than the ten days planned, to get over being the Brit misfit, but I’d reached the point of no return. I need to do this, or I’ll always be stuck. Also it was my year abroad. There was no way I was going to not take advantage of that for New Year’s Eve. So ten days later and six kilos heavier, I boarded that plane, Málaga-bound, with a box of (by then, crumbled) mince pies  – apparently I hadn’t been put off completely – and a new attitude.

    My dad’s sound advice: “If you’re going back, stop stressing. They can’t tell you off for trying can they? Don’t let it ruin your last month there. Enjoy yourself.” And my ever-growing appreciation for the andaluz way of life impelled a change in my mentality.

    “I have about six weeks left here, I want to be fluent, I want to eat tapas and I don’t want to care when people don’t understand me. I want to see things I haven’t seen before, I want to see Spanish things and I want to do Spanish things.”

    So I started saying yes, or ‘sí’ to more things.

    OLÉ - Salobreña, Spain
    OLÉ – Salobreña, Spain

    From the moment I disembarked the plane in Málaga I withheld the urge to revert back to my enemy, the comfort zone, and proceeded to the ALSA ticket office outside, making an enquiry in Spanish about times of buses to Granada. I don’t know if she noticed my accent was off or not, I didn’t notice myself, because after all, who cares? I asked a question and got my answer. Silly little things like that. Why did that ever bother me?

    The sad thing is, it used to scare me.

    Getting back to Casa de Monos was a bit like returning to Uni halls before everyone had gotten back from holidays; a few of us in the building had decided to stay over the New Year period, so a big NYE dinner was organised by lovely Flat 5 Izquierda, which involved lots of pasta, champers, wine, not enough chairs, and a long table of drunk foreigners, myself included.

    After the lovely meal I went to get changed; my friend Chris was dapper in a suit and bowtie, so obviously I felt a sparkly gold sequinned dress and new high heels was appropriate/not OTT at all/well if you can’t go all out for NYE when CAN you?!

    I met everyone at the flat before leaving, and we all tottered out (okay just myself and a few of the girls), making our way towards Plaza del Carmen, outside the town hall. Which, by the way, was RAMMO. I can’t express how packed it was. And weirdly we seemed to be the only non-Spanish group. As part of tradition, some of us had brought 12 grapes along, the Spanish custom being to eat a grape for each chime of the bell during the countdown to midnight. I did not remember this unfortunately, although I did remember the champers. Fortunately.

    There were masses of crowds, live music, and a lot of loud conversations. To this day I maintain that whoever was in charge had missed the countdown, because as far as I was aware, there was a fuzzy mumble over speakers in the square, and then everyone began simultaneously screaming and hugging each other. There were also fireworks amidst this madness. Some friends were chucking grapes down their throats, or at each other, while the rest struggled to get all their plastic glasses under the same bottle of trickling champagne (that would be myself included, again). Everyone was having a raucous old time, Jacob even managed to catch the flying cork of a champagne bottle which had popped somewhere in the crowd; I still can’t believe it, and I still keep hold of it for luck!

    Balcony view of Plaza del Carmen
    Plaza del Carmen, minus crowds, fireworks and chaos

    As crowds began to disperse (WHERE’S THE FIESTA AT?), we got our group together and walked along the Paseo de los Tristes, stopping by the car park near the bridge for a mini ‘botellón’, Spanish for pre-drink, only they don’t do it to binge, shocker! After copious amounts of tinto were washed down, we headed upwards (with the hills of the Albaicín it is an almost vertical journey) to Camborio, not before stopping at the bridge for a moment to find out group straggler’s whereabouts (F.Y.I this is you, Carys). I remember having a lovely time, receiving a free glass of (more) champagne, a new year hat, or some kind of souvenir, and dancing till my shoes left my feet (literally they were so sore I am never wearing heels out  the same day I buy them again. Ever.) I also cringely remember completely losing my footing on the way out, and tumbling in spectacular fashion, contents of bag spilling across the cobble-stoned street. I got up with what dignity I had left (none), realised I didn’t care, and walked to the taxi rank.

    It was 7am when I arrived back at my cave of a bedroom (the shutter was down and no alarm was being set). I woke up in the afternoon, decided I wanted to make the room stop spinning/drink all the water in the world/go for a Chinese, but mainly the last one, so rounded up the troops and expressed how much a good oriental meal complete with many prawn crackers would solve all our hangover problems right now.

    Throwback of me and Cartman NYE before
    Throwback of me and Cartman NYE before

    Home or away, seems I’m still that English girl who craves Chinese food after a night out, but I’m not sorry for it. I had a good time with good friends, and a night to remember, which definitely cost me less than the New Years Eve prior to that (no doubt it was great, but  left me more than £100 out of pocket and queuing outside Charing Cross McDonald’s for a Big Mac). That is a good start to the year in my eyes (not counting the hangover), and I was looking forward to making more memories before leaving for Italy.

    As destiny would have it, on returning to Granada, I messaged Sole, and she replied on New Year’s, saying how she was back at home, in Ronda.

    “You should come here for Los Reyes Magos”

    Why not.

    “¡Sí!”

    next stop, Ronda.
    next stop, Ronda.
  • Uni Life Part 2: Becoming Andaluza

    Uni Life Part 2: Becoming Andaluza

    Valentine’s Day last year, my heart was left broken. Granada had me completely enamoured, under its bewitching charm and in a state of enraptured stupor. The city, it’s people, and of course, the tapas, had me so fazed I sometimes (more like every day spent there) forgot what I was supposed to be doing (talk to any Erasmus student and this seems to be the norm). Uni had been tough, yes ** don’t worry this is a rant-free zone** but I had reached a point (FINALMENTE) where I actually felt not even Spanish, but Andaluza. Whether Granada approved or not, I considered myself an honorary Andalusian, not a tourist. The city had an overwhelming power to make me feel I just needed to be part of it. This sounds incredibly cliché and perhaps portrays me as a little obsessed, but it is what it is. Go there and you’ll find out.

    For me, the transformation from being naïve foreigner to feeling like “THIS IS HOME” was incredible. Outside of classes I realised what was helping me most to improve language (and therefore mood); making a genuine effort to integrate.

    Trying to attain a clear Castilian accent was dropped for liberally slurring words – aka my attempt at speaking andaluz, although at times I’m pretty certain I did not have a clue what I was trying to get across. Staring became less of an annoyance and more a way of life. It’s just people being curious I guess. When you live in such a vibrant place why wouldn’t you want to look at the things around you? Uncertainty over how to approach social situations within a different culture was overcome by abandoning that innate British feeling of awkwardness. Want something? Go and get it. Problem? Sort it out, or get over it.

    Stop worrying. Relajate.

    Andalusia is loud, open, unique and alive in character, all admirable traits its people also possess. A selection of whom, if it weren’t for their kindness, friendship, and patience, my Erasmus stay would not have been as enjoyable as it was.

    Sole had been on the Erasmus programme in Rome the year before, and knew the whole deal with being the newcomer; taking pity on ‘la pobre’/the poor girl, she taught me that it is okay to make mistakes and that ‘people stare because they’re stupid. Stare back.’ Okay so maybe people should be a bit less obvious with their curiosity…Preach! Being a student of the ‘Facultad de Medicina’ in Granada, she was into fundraisers (they all go on a big holiday at the end of term), which meant serious socialising. I tagged along to a few, which consequently meant drinking enough sangría to become fluent. And you know what, I think it worked. Eventually. I can’t thank this girl enough for being so welcoming, and giving me the chance to understand what it really means to be Spanish, to be andaluz.

    Through friends of friends I also had luck in finding an intercambio partner, Cristina, who was studying education at Granada. To my surprise, she and her group of friends had found difficulty in coming across a native English speaker to practice their language with, which is weird, because a few English people I knew had had the exact opposite problem “SPANIARDS? WHERE DO YOU FIND THEM?”

    Going for un café and tapas with them was a novelty at first.

    ‘Okay more of them are joining. Cool, this is good. Making friends. Oh my god. They’ve started speaking to each other. Woah. That’s fast . What did she say? Okay nope yeah didn’t get that. Okay she’s repeating what she said. Yep. Got it. That definitely was NOT Spanish. Okay coffee is here, good. I don’t drink coffee. Smile. Look like you’re part of the conversation. MUY BIEN’

    The more I met up with them, the quicker they clocked on when I just wasn’t comprehending, and respect to them, they actually strived to make me understand, and speak, and learn how to roll my bloody R’s. Which is apparently my go-to for making Spaniards laugh.

    Yes, I am certain this is only supposed to serve one
    Yes, I am certain this is only supposed to serve one

    By Christmas I was drinking coffee every morning, I was often late to class (okay fine I have always been THAT person), and there was nothing better than tostada andaluz to start the day – I will have my toast drenched in olive oil, covered in tomato pulp and sprinkled with salt, por favor. Being in the ‘queue’ at the Mercadona delicatessen no longer struck me with a chilling fear and I just did not care that everyone at my perfect gym was so tanned-toned-fit’n’ready; ONE DAY I SWEAR. UN DÍA. Instead I did my thing like los andaluces; ate some tapas, enjoyed what was around me, shouted for my order and learned to say yes more.

    I also napped more, obviamente.

  • Uni Life Part 1: The UGR Misfits

    Uni Life Part 1: The UGR Misfits

    So as you would have already realised from previous posts, university life in Spain was not all it was cracked up to be. In fact, aside from having a decent café with Alhambra beer on tap, I do not have many positive things to say about my time spent in la facultad de filosofía y letras, University of Granada.

    Teachers seemed to be either condescending or just plain mean. I know what this sounds like. *Stupid English girl thinks studying is difficult* Fact is, you’re on your own, and sometimes it can get to you.

    “Do you understand?”

    “No”

    “You need to tell me if you don’t understand”

    I’ll just keep my hand up for the whole lesson then.

    ***

    “So is there somewhere I can find notes for this lesson online? I tried to understand, but I’m finding it a bit difficult to keep up with this class.”

    “I don’t like using the internet, [F.Y.I THIS INCLUDES EMAIL – I’m not joking.] but you can ask your classmates for their notes”

    Yes Miss, I will go up to one of the Spanish classmates I’ve never spoken to before and: “HIYA LOVE, MIND IF I COPY YOUR NOTES? GRASSY ARSE”

    Italian class was the absolute worst. Picture the scene. I’m sat in the front row, with three other English Erasmus students (or la colonia Britanica/The British Colony as Miss so endearingly named us). The prof talks specifically to the other side of the class (Spaniards): “Samantha is the only one going to Italy next semester”. She then turns to face me, with a glare that screams ‘What are you even doing here?’, before delivering a line so pretentious, and laced with what I would have interpreted as sly bitterness: “Please, don’t tell them you studied it here… I’ll deny it.”

    ***JAJAJA***

    Just the motivation one needs. Was it really necessary?

    Sad as it is to admit, it gave me a tougher skin, because the one thing used to mark me out as the dumb English girl became my strongest form of defence.

    So right after Ms Jumped-Up Prof had sassed me out in Spanish, I broke into my London accent and openly ranted about her attitude problem to a friend.

    It’s silly, it’s childish and I should probably get over some old lady humiliating me in front of people I’ll most likely never see again. But at the time it was all I had to go on, and it led me to become unfazed by the notion of being misunderstood. Going to class became a lot easier when I stopped caring so much about what other people thought and whether or not I was saying the right thing. I also came to learn that I was not the only one struggling. Aside from us Pompey lot, most Erasmus students (not just from the UK) were finding it challenging, or at the very least frustrating, to study in the faculty.

    November left me feeling stupid, poor and fat (frustration had been taken out on the tapas). University attendance pretty much matched my mood. Needless to say, when first semester was done, I was SO. DONE.

  • Uni Galz On Tour Part 2: ¡Estupendoooooo!

    Uni Galz On Tour Part 2: ¡Estupendoooooo!

    I’m alright as hostesses go, but people who know me will tell you I am more feeder than tour-guide. Day Two of Uni Galz On Tour, I took my guests for a walk to the city centre, via Triunfo. It’s not until you show others around a place that you realise how much you really take it for granted. I’ve never truly appreciated los Jardines de Triunfo as much as I should. It’s no Generalife, but as parks go, it provides a great spot for sunbathing during summer months, with its brilliant white stone, well-maintained gardens and beautiful fountains.

    After this stop we strolled through Gran Via, a striking feature in itself. This being the main road, it is lined with towering buildings, some of which are prestigious hotels, others tabaquerías; I had to walk up and down this road every Tuesday and Thursday for four months. I never got bored. There is so much to look at; not only the buildings but the people themselves – I no longer minded walking at Spanish-pace, because that way I could take it all in, which I had forgotten to do until I noticed the girls pausing in their steps. It’s true that a lot of the time it was to gaze over ofertas on boards outside tapas bars, but even so, Granada always delivers something to marvel at. Taking a short-cut via Calle Elvira, we found ourselves in Plaza Nueva. Walking through this square always incites a feeling of grandeur and history. Despite the hustle and bustle that surrounds it, Plaza Nueva remains open, clean, and imposing. It is for this reason that we decided to have lunch outside one of its restaurants… and later inside (when we realised they charged more for al-fresco dining; CLASSIC tourist trap). We all shared pizzas, and enjoyed large jugs of sangria, before mooching onto the next part of my tour.

    If you continue walking through the plaza you will find yourself at carerra del Darro, a passage along the river from which you can view the Alhambra, from below, in all its splendour. Through the backstreets from this point, you can also get to the Albaicín, the Arab quarter of Granada, which I led the girls to next. Places like this made me appreciate my Erasmus location more. The Albaicín is not just some honey-pot for tourists – it holds real culture; one separated from the rest. The girls had a look around the sloped streets fragranced with incense and laden with shops selling trinkets, leather bags, Arabian tapestry and the like. “I really have always wanted a rucksack like this…”

    After our alternative shopping trip we found ourselves back on Gran Via, and in a café which displayed the most mouth-watering pastries. We did all feel very European sitting there with our short coffees and pasteles, but one thing I do find is that Spanish bakeries are more often than not disappointing. Each to their own; it was nice, but I think I will be leaving tea and cake for home. I think the girls were more or less on the same wavelength as me, as we then made our way to ‘Mercadoooona, Mercadona’; tinto de verano/flavoured vodka/honey rum/any alcohol you couldn’t find in the UK, hangover-munchies and Milka (“OMG IT’S SO CHEAP HERE”) chocolate was happening.

    I hand it to my flatmates; they dealt with six extra people staying in the flat well – waiting for a shower to be free was probably the worst, but somehow we managed it. Everyone was ready for LA GRAN FIESTA; Princess Liz was so merry she was keen to try out her linguistic skills, which admittedly Joshua and I should not have taken advantage of. Liz’s Spanish vocabulary covered various food terms, adjectives of appraisal; her fave being ‘estupendo’, and now, unknowingly, a selection of obscenities. This was all ‘just banter’ until what she thought was “super cool” was not something you wanted to be shouting in the middle of a discoteca.

    Before ambling to El Camborio, the (in)famous club on a massive cobble-stoned hill, we went to Babylon, which will always be my favourite chupiteria. The girls could not believe how many different shots there were to choose from, (not to mention how cheap they were); I always had a trusted mojito from Fabio, who has heard me speaking the worst pidgin Italian more times than I would like to admit, yet was I ever judged for it? MA NON!

    “!TEQUILA!” “!ESTUPENDO!” “!*****!”

    O.K. Time to move.

    We arrived at Camborio and again I had to take in what I had forgotten about Granada. Al and Nic were in awe. “Look at that!” To be fair it is one of the nicest views you’ll ever get from a smoking area – the Alhambra, lit up at night, stood there, claiming stance over the rest of the city.

    Inside the club, we were all #LovinLyf. Although Liz used to give me stick over my choice in what I like to think is a more cultured taste in music (reggaeton), she was now enjoying the Hispanic vibe, as were Nic and Han, who had grown up to similar sounds played on French radio. Language barrier only caused a little trouble that night; a Spanish chico had approached Crystal with the intention of a dance, but would not take ‘No’ or ‘I don’t speak Spanish’ for an answer. I didn’t hear what he said next, but I believe she copied him in response. “BLEUGH BLEUGH LAH.” Fair play.

    Every minute felt like being on holiday; we tried to dance salsa, we ordered cocktails, and we screamed along to the lyrics of every English song played. Beats Liquid on a Friday night, just sayin’. We even got a shawarma (it’s better than kebab – BELIEVE IT) on the way home; and because there were so many of us crowded into this kebaby it felt like an after party. The walk home was cold. I remember that.

    We wanted to make the most of the precious time we had together *cringe but it’s true* so had agreed to wake up at a sensible hour the next day. Only trouble is it’s Spain, therefore it is already the next day; I don’t know what time we got in, but I can safely say that shawarma was more breakfast than dinner.

    We were zombies; the next day involved passing bags of crisps and foreign chocolate from mattress to mattress to mattress; we decided to take it easy, and make a trip to the Plaza de Toros because it was market day. Unfortunately by the time we had got ourselves together, the market was over. This did not stop us from wasting a photo-op; nor from Han to play matadora to Al’s toro. I’m not sure what the locals thought of a girl running around with a scarf while the other had two fingers (horns) on her head. Locas.

    To make sure the girls caught their plane on time we returned to Málaga the day before, and set up camp at Casalooch’s pad. Josh being the Italian Stallion cooked us all pasta, and we all snuggled up to watch Black Swan. I did fall asleep. I did snore. I have seen the movie since and it’s actually quite good, but I had to act as expected of me at a sleepover. Accommodating everybody at mine was quite a push; at Josh’s house we literally took over every comfy surface. I think the girls were exhausted and probably glad to be going back to beds (double beds); despite this, we all felt Spain had cheated us out of time. It seemed all too soon that Casalooch was bidding us farewell at the station; I had gotten on the same train as the girls, to get off at central Malaga for my bus back home, and to reality. Hugging my friends goodbye was horrible and rushed. I had had the best time, with six of my closest, and the last four days had felt like a snippet of the last year spent with them.

    Nic and Josh playing matador
    Nic and Josh playing matador

    If I am being honest, when I returned to my empty room (save for two spare mattresses and half a packet of uneaten Milka) I was at a bit of loss, and didn’t quite know what to do with myself.

    I ate said Milka. The girls must have known I would need it.

  • Uni Galz On Tour Part 1: FOUR IN A BED

    Uni Galz On Tour Part 1: FOUR IN A BED

    Even though university was getting a bit ‘meh’ in Granada (poo hadn’t quite hit the fan at this point), I still found myself completely enamoured by Spain and the astounding city I was lucky enough to call home.

    During my time at university in Portsmouth I was #blessed (and still am!) to have a close group of girlfriends (and not forgetting Casalooch). Being the only one of the ‘uni galz’ to take a course with a year abroad, I found myself missing out on third year house fun (we shared a house in second year and I can honestly say those girls got me through – the coursework; the mice; the stressful part-time job). If I’m honest I was so excited to be abroad that I was trying to forget the fact I was leaving behind my friends, and would actually have to *gasp* make new ones. In a way I was jealous that they all got to stay together and continue Uni antics without me; hangovers, rodents and all. It came as great news to me therefore, that five of them were planning to make a visit to España (Ellie it’s okay, I don’t hold it against you, but you missed out on good kebab) – OLÉ! To say I was looking forward to it would have been a massive understatement.

    Mis chicas
    Mis chicas

    The night before the girls’ flight I travelled to Malaga to stay with Joshua and, as was the ritual, he cooked Carbonara, we drank wine, and then caught up on how Uni was going (not well), how money was going (WHERE is it going?!) and how our Spanish was coming along (better…with wine).

    He had told the girls he would meet them at the airport when they arrived, before they all planned to bus it up to Granada together. As a surprise I decided to come along as well, and as we came out of the train station just opposite the airport, we could make out a group of weary travellers. At this point I hid behind Joshua as he strode towards them *cue girly screams*. So overcome with emotion, I ended up doing the slow-mo-long-distance embrace with Liz and attacked the others with equally expressive hugs and ‘IT’S BEEN SO LONG I’VE MISSED YOU’s. You could have told me otherwise, but for the four days they visited, it was my birthday weekend. Five of my TOP FRIENDS had come to see ME and we were all going to get drunk and have a merry old time in Spain.

    Priorities first though. From what I understood the girls had not gotten much sleep on their flight, and they had travelled all the way from Pompey at too-early-o’clock in a cab to the airport. They would now have to endure a train, coach, then cab journey to mine… With this realisation we took the next train back to central Malaga, and FOOD.

    After chowing down on some burgers (“Sam, how do you say chicken with lots of mayo?”) we moved on from Malaga to mi nueva ciudad. When we finally arrived at Casa de Monos the girls seemed impressed with my building, and my flat (“Oh my god, it looks just like the one in Taken!”), although the space in my bedroom I had once thought was more-than-enough was now rather questionable… I had made a bid for the flat’s spare mattresses in advance, and after a bit of ‘Changing-Rooms’ type interior design, managed to turn my abode into the Sleepover Club. It made for an interesting night, and those who did not like snuggles (or my snoring) had to put up with it. We were 21 going on 12, and I was updated on all the goss I had missed from third year so far, and in return was obliged to spill the beans on what Erasmus life was really like “Sam do you even go to Uni?” “I’ve seen you go to the beach a lot” “Have you made many friends?” “Any Spanish friends?” “All you do is go out isn’t it?” Nuff with the third degree guys. We had planned to go out that night but everyone was shattered from the cab, plane, train, coach, cab (plus being Top Lad, poor Nicola had been out on the town the night before, POST-hockey match) so we saved our energy for the next day…

    Reunited
    Reunited
  • #homecomforts – Tips for Surviving Homesickness

    #homecomforts – Tips for Surviving Homesickness

    Probably not the most cringe/cheesy/OMG Kill Me Now Pls Facebook status I’ve ever published whilst intoxicated, but it’s definitely up there.

    I wrote this a month into my stay in Granada. Pathetic as the title reads, I didn’t miss home per se; la vida Erasmus doesn’t allow it; there are just too many things to do and see, and in the first month I was completely lost to Spain and its way of life. There were only moments, I found, when visiting a place would stir a memory, or when things that seemed a little difficult abroad felt near enough impossible when compared to HOW EASY IT IS AT HOME. In coping with this feeling that cropped up from time-to-time, I found ways to avoid succumbing to total ‘GET ME ON A PLANE HOME NOW’ meltdown mode:

    • DO NOT dwell on things that are better/easier/not as problematic at home. You are NOT at home; get accustomed to your new situation and deal with it.
    Pompey Uni I’ll Never Take You For Granted Again
    • DO make yourself busy. You’re hardly going to be thinking of Friday night’s pub quiz or Mum’s roast dinner when on a beach or climbing a mountain, are you?
    Not thinking about roast dinners
    Not thinking about roast dinners
    • DO NOT feel bad if you want to mope around. It is okay to spend a day in your cave of a room (mine had shutters that literally turned it pitch black), watching Disney movies and scoffing Pringles. Just don’t make it a habit. Give yourself a break, get it out of your system, and move on.
    • DO try something different. Embrace your new surroundings and make it your goal to become part of where you are. Change yourself to settle into your new life better; you’ll probably find yourself doing that unintentionally anyway.
    • DO stock up on plenty of teabags, or whatever your go-to comfort is.
    or Mama's Spring Rolls
    or Mama’s Spring Rolls
    • DO get productive; join a gym, find a tandem/intercambio partner, book a trip, or even do the readings for your next literature class. Doing something there will feel twice as much of an achievement and you’ll be too engrossed to miss home. Writing it all down will help too.
    • DO find your local Irish pub, in my case, Paddy’s, a fine establishment in which this legendary status was written. It served as a home from home when Spanish culture became a bit too overwhelming. Tony the barman would keep the cocktails coming and the 80’s tunes playing, plus there was a cracking kebaby opposite.
    'Tony, I'll be right back. I'm making toast'
    ‘Tony, I’ll be right back. I’m making toast’
    • DO surround yourself with people who make you feel happy. Misery loves company and is a dangerous route to depression.
    • DO avoid Skype, use SMS instead. I skyped my family a good amount while on my year abroad, but sometimes I was really lagging, especially at the beginning.
    Dad thinks he’s really funny

    “SAM WHERE ARE YOU? ARE YOU STILL IN SPAIN? ARE YOU EATING?!” Genuine Mum response to the first video-call I had made in a while.

    I tried to explain to them that the time to worry was not when I had gone A.W.O.L, but when I was constantly calling. In November my language had hit a plateau, my confidence was at an all-time-low and Uni was a big stinking pile of poo, not to mention the landlord was being an absolute *Insert preferred expletive here*. For this, Mum and Dad were being pestered by me 24/7 via Skype, email, text, and fax, had they owned a machine. Actually being able to see their worried faces through the computer screen made the feeling of homesickness so real, and the distance between us even greater. I don’t say stop video-calling altogether, just avoid it if it’s going to make you miss home more. And don’t forget to contact loved ones altogether; you may be busy, but they still need to know if you’re being fed and watered.

    Skype Silliness
    Skype Silliness

    My Dad was the recipient of many “Sorry! Don’t worry, I’m still alive, just busy!” texts, and that was sufficient enough. To which he would reply:

    “Glad you’re having a good time, we miss you, I’m in The Portrait.”

    Missing out on a pint. Typical.

  • Saved by Der Wasserkocher

    Saved by Der Wasserkocher

    Did you know that the Spanish do not have a word for kettle? In fact, the majority I met had never seen one before in their lives.

    If you think that is outrageous, be prepared for the following confession…

    It had been six days in Spain before I had a cup of tea. SIX WHOLE DAYS. And this is because we had finally got gas and therefore hot water in the flat *rejoice*, so it still meant waiting for a saucepan of water to boil before I could enjoy my long-awaited cuppa. My reaction (“ERMEHGERD IT’S AMAAAAZING!”) was met with looks of shock and wonder, and perhaps a better understanding of how important tea is to an English girl, which I didn’t quite realise myself until my flatmate, Chris, placed a ‘Wasserkocher’ (A KETTLE GUYS, A KETTLE!) in our kitchen. I think I almost cried.

    Going through old notebooks from my Granada Uni days, I came across scribbled conversations between myself and my Mancuniun mate/neighbour/drinking partner/moral-support-in-class companion, Helen. These had obviously been written during the class of History of Contemporary Literature of Spain in the Golden Age or some poncy culture module aka we hated it and had no idea why we’d signed up for it.

     

    How are we ever gonna pass this year? Wahh

     

    I’m gonna fail, for sure. I don’t even wanna think about Italy

     

    I am here for a year so I better be fluent by the end – unlikely

     

    You defo will, your Spanish is good now!

    NO

    YES. I can’t even order tapas without some sassy Spaniard going QUÉ

     

    Well they’re just being rude – I can always understand you

     

    Aw <3 I did a really trampy thing today. I don’t have teabags. So when I went to the bakery I ordered a tea, drank it when I got back, and I really wanted another.

    So I boiled water and used the same teabag.

     

    Scandalous – why haven’t you bought any? Still!

     

    Because I couldn’t find it in Día and Sunday it was closed :’(

     

    You should have come down to mine – I have PG Tips

     

    Being British Birds

     

    What a Babe.

     

    And slightly desperada on my part. The fact that I’ve managed to dedicate a blog post to a humble mug of English tea (no sugars, I’m sweet enough) says something. When it comes down to it, it’s the little things that count isn’t it? A cup of tea is not just a hot beverage; it is the end of a long day, a well-needed natter with friends, and for me, a pick-me-up when home is just that bit too far away.

    Spanish of the Golden Age/Dream Interpretation
    Spanish of the Golden Age/Dream Interpretation

     

     

  • Honey, I’m home/en casa/ zu Hause/thuis zijn

    Honey, I’m home/en casa/ zu Hause/thuis zijn

    4° Izquierda. Sonnentanz was our jam, Brasilia was our hangout.

    Finding digs in Granada was not the easiest of tasks for me, as some of you well know, but I arrived in the new city and found myself not living with just Spaniards, as promised (the landlord promised a lot of things, but I’m still waiting for my €350), instead I was one of six in our international flat, and I loved it.

    Pick One

    Pick One

    A day in Casa de Monos, the name given to our Erasmus community building (later renamed ‘de problemos’), involved yelling at each other across the courtyard, grand flat meals (be it German, Portuguese, Colombian, Spanish, etc), everyday tapas outings and intense studying… of national drinking games.

     

    Meeting  new people is always an interesting experience, but hanging out and living with those from other countries/cultures made moving to Granada all the more unique, and relieved somewhat the pressure of being ‘the foreigner in a new land’ – we were all from different places and all trying to integrate. I say this but I suppose we stuck out like a sore thumb whilst exploring the city.

                     “You looking for fiesta tonight? Five euro, dos copas!”

    The University of Granada receives a massive intake of Erasmus students each year, and the building I called home was an example of the mixed demographic present in the city. Although heavily populated by us studying foreigners, Granada was/is/will also continue to be a place that tourists from the world over flock to see. The city has so many personalities that it’s no wonder so many people visiting feel right at home there. I certainly did.

     

    Plaza de Toros: the best value tapas in town.

    Where in the world can you get a (decent-sized) burger, fries and beer for just over €2? Ridiculous as it sounds, it was cheaper to eat out than it was to cook *student heaven*. Living opposite the Plaza de Toros, we had a good selection of tapas bars at our disposal; the faves being Nido del Buho, Brasilia (I and II) and Estrella. Another upside of where we were was of course the bullring itself. Whether or not you agree with Spain’s on-going controversial tradition of bullfighting, there’s no denying the history and iconic status of this building. I never actually managed to attend a bullfight whilst in Spain (I would have liked to have gone just once for the experience), but I do remember taking a nap one afternoon on our living room sofa, and being woken up to the screeching cries of young (hysteric) Spanish girls. Pablo Alborán was playing a live concert from the Plaza de Toros apparently. And I got to hear the whole thing (for free!).

    The plaza itself has built-in cafes and bars – I was a fan of the chain La Sureña  in particular; a bucket of five ice cold beers for three euros? Ideal! Another place I remember was Magic, the Plaza’s salsa club, where my flatmate (and fabulous dancing queen!) Lisa would go often, and in the beginning of la Vida Erasmus, I tagged along a few times. There, la magia happened, and I forgot how to dance. You know? That feeling. Everyone had their groove on, Lisa was in her element, being twirled and strutted across the Latin beats dance-floor by a handsome Cuban, and I had turned into a total bloke. Into the shadows of the darkest corner of the bar, away from rhythmic couples; holding on tight to my copa, silently praying no one would approach me and my two left feet. If anyone stepped too close I was prepared: “NO POOWEDO  BAYLAAR!”. Turns out I was just standing in the way of the loos.

     

    Still, even if salsa ain’t your thing, and you find yourself being shyer than you realised, I would recommend taking a look anyway to see it done, and done well. Maybe have a go if you’re brave enough (or had enough tequilas); worse comes to worst you’ll enjoy treading on a few toes to a reggaeton salsa beat.