Tag: Plaza de Toros

  • Uni Galz On Tour Part 2: ¡Estupendoooooo!

    Uni Galz On Tour Part 2: ¡Estupendoooooo!

    I’m alright as hostesses go, but people who know me will tell you I am more feeder than tour-guide. Day Two of Uni Galz On Tour, I took my guests for a walk to the city centre, via Triunfo. It’s not until you show others around a place that you realise how much you really take it for granted. I’ve never truly appreciated los Jardines de Triunfo as much as I should. It’s no Generalife, but as parks go, it provides a great spot for sunbathing during summer months, with its brilliant white stone, well-maintained gardens and beautiful fountains.

    After this stop we strolled through Gran Via, a striking feature in itself. This being the main road, it is lined with towering buildings, some of which are prestigious hotels, others tabaquerías; I had to walk up and down this road every Tuesday and Thursday for four months. I never got bored. There is so much to look at; not only the buildings but the people themselves – I no longer minded walking at Spanish-pace, because that way I could take it all in, which I had forgotten to do until I noticed the girls pausing in their steps. It’s true that a lot of the time it was to gaze over ofertas on boards outside tapas bars, but even so, Granada always delivers something to marvel at. Taking a short-cut via Calle Elvira, we found ourselves in Plaza Nueva. Walking through this square always incites a feeling of grandeur and history. Despite the hustle and bustle that surrounds it, Plaza Nueva remains open, clean, and imposing. It is for this reason that we decided to have lunch outside one of its restaurants… and later inside (when we realised they charged more for al-fresco dining; CLASSIC tourist trap). We all shared pizzas, and enjoyed large jugs of sangria, before mooching onto the next part of my tour.

    If you continue walking through the plaza you will find yourself at carerra del Darro, a passage along the river from which you can view the Alhambra, from below, in all its splendour. Through the backstreets from this point, you can also get to the Albaicín, the Arab quarter of Granada, which I led the girls to next. Places like this made me appreciate my Erasmus location more. The Albaicín is not just some honey-pot for tourists – it holds real culture; one separated from the rest. The girls had a look around the sloped streets fragranced with incense and laden with shops selling trinkets, leather bags, Arabian tapestry and the like. “I really have always wanted a rucksack like this…”

    After our alternative shopping trip we found ourselves back on Gran Via, and in a café which displayed the most mouth-watering pastries. We did all feel very European sitting there with our short coffees and pasteles, but one thing I do find is that Spanish bakeries are more often than not disappointing. Each to their own; it was nice, but I think I will be leaving tea and cake for home. I think the girls were more or less on the same wavelength as me, as we then made our way to ‘Mercadoooona, Mercadona’; tinto de verano/flavoured vodka/honey rum/any alcohol you couldn’t find in the UK, hangover-munchies and Milka (“OMG IT’S SO CHEAP HERE”) chocolate was happening.

    I hand it to my flatmates; they dealt with six extra people staying in the flat well – waiting for a shower to be free was probably the worst, but somehow we managed it. Everyone was ready for LA GRAN FIESTA; Princess Liz was so merry she was keen to try out her linguistic skills, which admittedly Joshua and I should not have taken advantage of. Liz’s Spanish vocabulary covered various food terms, adjectives of appraisal; her fave being ‘estupendo’, and now, unknowingly, a selection of obscenities. This was all ‘just banter’ until what she thought was “super cool” was not something you wanted to be shouting in the middle of a discoteca.

    Before ambling to El Camborio, the (in)famous club on a massive cobble-stoned hill, we went to Babylon, which will always be my favourite chupiteria. The girls could not believe how many different shots there were to choose from, (not to mention how cheap they were); I always had a trusted mojito from Fabio, who has heard me speaking the worst pidgin Italian more times than I would like to admit, yet was I ever judged for it? MA NON!

    “!TEQUILA!” “!ESTUPENDO!” “!*****!”

    O.K. Time to move.

    We arrived at Camborio and again I had to take in what I had forgotten about Granada. Al and Nic were in awe. “Look at that!” To be fair it is one of the nicest views you’ll ever get from a smoking area – the Alhambra, lit up at night, stood there, claiming stance over the rest of the city.

    Inside the club, we were all #LovinLyf. Although Liz used to give me stick over my choice in what I like to think is a more cultured taste in music (reggaeton), she was now enjoying the Hispanic vibe, as were Nic and Han, who had grown up to similar sounds played on French radio. Language barrier only caused a little trouble that night; a Spanish chico had approached Crystal with the intention of a dance, but would not take ‘No’ or ‘I don’t speak Spanish’ for an answer. I didn’t hear what he said next, but I believe she copied him in response. “BLEUGH BLEUGH LAH.” Fair play.

    Every minute felt like being on holiday; we tried to dance salsa, we ordered cocktails, and we screamed along to the lyrics of every English song played. Beats Liquid on a Friday night, just sayin’. We even got a shawarma (it’s better than kebab – BELIEVE IT) on the way home; and because there were so many of us crowded into this kebaby it felt like an after party. The walk home was cold. I remember that.

    We wanted to make the most of the precious time we had together *cringe but it’s true* so had agreed to wake up at a sensible hour the next day. Only trouble is it’s Spain, therefore it is already the next day; I don’t know what time we got in, but I can safely say that shawarma was more breakfast than dinner.

    We were zombies; the next day involved passing bags of crisps and foreign chocolate from mattress to mattress to mattress; we decided to take it easy, and make a trip to the Plaza de Toros because it was market day. Unfortunately by the time we had got ourselves together, the market was over. This did not stop us from wasting a photo-op; nor from Han to play matadora to Al’s toro. I’m not sure what the locals thought of a girl running around with a scarf while the other had two fingers (horns) on her head. Locas.

    To make sure the girls caught their plane on time we returned to Málaga the day before, and set up camp at Casalooch’s pad. Josh being the Italian Stallion cooked us all pasta, and we all snuggled up to watch Black Swan. I did fall asleep. I did snore. I have seen the movie since and it’s actually quite good, but I had to act as expected of me at a sleepover. Accommodating everybody at mine was quite a push; at Josh’s house we literally took over every comfy surface. I think the girls were exhausted and probably glad to be going back to beds (double beds); despite this, we all felt Spain had cheated us out of time. It seemed all too soon that Casalooch was bidding us farewell at the station; I had gotten on the same train as the girls, to get off at central Malaga for my bus back home, and to reality. Hugging my friends goodbye was horrible and rushed. I had had the best time, with six of my closest, and the last four days had felt like a snippet of the last year spent with them.

    Nic and Josh playing matador
    Nic and Josh playing matador

    If I am being honest, when I returned to my empty room (save for two spare mattresses and half a packet of uneaten Milka) I was at a bit of loss, and didn’t quite know what to do with myself.

    I ate said Milka. The girls must have known I would need it.

  • Honey, I’m home/en casa/ zu Hause/thuis zijn

    Honey, I’m home/en casa/ zu Hause/thuis zijn

    4° Izquierda. Sonnentanz was our jam, Brasilia was our hangout.

    Finding digs in Granada was not the easiest of tasks for me, as some of you well know, but I arrived in the new city and found myself not living with just Spaniards, as promised (the landlord promised a lot of things, but I’m still waiting for my €350), instead I was one of six in our international flat, and I loved it.

    Pick One

    Pick One

    A day in Casa de Monos, the name given to our Erasmus community building (later renamed ‘de problemos’), involved yelling at each other across the courtyard, grand flat meals (be it German, Portuguese, Colombian, Spanish, etc), everyday tapas outings and intense studying… of national drinking games.

     

    Meeting  new people is always an interesting experience, but hanging out and living with those from other countries/cultures made moving to Granada all the more unique, and relieved somewhat the pressure of being ‘the foreigner in a new land’ – we were all from different places and all trying to integrate. I say this but I suppose we stuck out like a sore thumb whilst exploring the city.

                     “You looking for fiesta tonight? Five euro, dos copas!”

    The University of Granada receives a massive intake of Erasmus students each year, and the building I called home was an example of the mixed demographic present in the city. Although heavily populated by us studying foreigners, Granada was/is/will also continue to be a place that tourists from the world over flock to see. The city has so many personalities that it’s no wonder so many people visiting feel right at home there. I certainly did.

     

    Plaza de Toros: the best value tapas in town.

    Where in the world can you get a (decent-sized) burger, fries and beer for just over €2? Ridiculous as it sounds, it was cheaper to eat out than it was to cook *student heaven*. Living opposite the Plaza de Toros, we had a good selection of tapas bars at our disposal; the faves being Nido del Buho, Brasilia (I and II) and Estrella. Another upside of where we were was of course the bullring itself. Whether or not you agree with Spain’s on-going controversial tradition of bullfighting, there’s no denying the history and iconic status of this building. I never actually managed to attend a bullfight whilst in Spain (I would have liked to have gone just once for the experience), but I do remember taking a nap one afternoon on our living room sofa, and being woken up to the screeching cries of young (hysteric) Spanish girls. Pablo Alborán was playing a live concert from the Plaza de Toros apparently. And I got to hear the whole thing (for free!).

    The plaza itself has built-in cafes and bars – I was a fan of the chain La Sureña  in particular; a bucket of five ice cold beers for three euros? Ideal! Another place I remember was Magic, the Plaza’s salsa club, where my flatmate (and fabulous dancing queen!) Lisa would go often, and in the beginning of la Vida Erasmus, I tagged along a few times. There, la magia happened, and I forgot how to dance. You know? That feeling. Everyone had their groove on, Lisa was in her element, being twirled and strutted across the Latin beats dance-floor by a handsome Cuban, and I had turned into a total bloke. Into the shadows of the darkest corner of the bar, away from rhythmic couples; holding on tight to my copa, silently praying no one would approach me and my two left feet. If anyone stepped too close I was prepared: “NO POOWEDO  BAYLAAR!”. Turns out I was just standing in the way of the loos.

     

    Still, even if salsa ain’t your thing, and you find yourself being shyer than you realised, I would recommend taking a look anyway to see it done, and done well. Maybe have a go if you’re brave enough (or had enough tequilas); worse comes to worst you’ll enjoy treading on a few toes to a reggaeton salsa beat.

  • Bienvenido a Granada

    Post-reckless retail splurge and I found myself struggling to distribute all my things into two suitcases, a handbag and my rucksack; back to square one with a bus journey ahead of us. 

     Just stepping foot in Granada there is a noticeable difference in the air of this place; a sense of calm envelops the city, with its undeniable wealth of history, quintessentially Spanish characteristics and a landscape of unparalleled beauty.

    La Alhambra, Granada
    La Alhambra, Granada

     Pulling up to my building in a cab, I feel I’ve made the right choice in terms of location (Hallelujah!). In a bid to become as ‘española’ as possible, I am currently residing in a sizable flat overlooking the city’s distinguished Plaza de Toros, in a neighbourhood literally dotted with tapas bars (as in one on every street/ corner/square meter of the area), which themselves create a buzz during lunchtime and late evening alike; a constant hustle of food, drink and Andalusian conversation.

     At the time of writing this blog, I have been in Granada for just over a fortnight, and it’s been a surreal blur of adjusting to late nights/early mornings/non-existent midday’s.  There are some things that I’ve become certain of whilst being here;

    1.  I will not go hungry (so Mum and Dad, stop panicking)
    2. If you want to buy something on Sunday, forget it, you can go without for one day.
    3. The Spanish are not lazy for incorporating ‘siesta’ into their working day – have you TRIED doing anything at that time of day in this heat??
    4. TAPAS. My bank balance and waistline approve.
    5. Customer service is not priority, so it’s up to you to holler at the waiter/sales assistant – if you want something done, do something about it.
    6. They like to stare – coming from where I’m from this is an alien concept – not here though; get used to it, the whole up-and-down staring thing.
    7. Don’t expect anything to be done immediately; the ‘mañana’ concept, that’s taken seriously.  Don’t worry though, it will get done, it’s just ASAP has less of a meaning here…
    8. I need to learn to slow my pace. Being programmed to London-time is not helpful in the slightest; here there is nothing important enough that requires walking more than 2mph; so keep calm and stroll on.
    9. The Spanish don’t do tips. It felt uncomfortable at first; not leaving 10% of the bill, almost as if I were pulling a ‘dine-and-dash’, but I checked with the natives, it’s the done thing here.
    10. Don’t go to the hairdressers expecting exactly what you asked for. Yesterday a friend and I left la peluquería, bewildered and looking like two 16 year old Spanish chicas, ready for our first prom.